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Glad it was helpful!

Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed the video 😊

You're welcome!

You're welcome! I hope you have fun creating with your pastel pencils 😊

If you're interested in real-time full length tutorials where I list all the colours I am using, then you're welcome to check out my KR Fine Art Academy here 😊 www.kirstyrebeccafineart.com

Thank you so much! 😊

Thank you so much!

Hi, it is a personal preference! I understand what you are saying, and I would agree but only if I started my smaller artwork at low prices... however, I chose to price my smaller artwork at a higher price that isn't "ripping myself off" so that when I use linear inches, the price increase is not a drastic jump to get to the next size (like it would be for square inches) These are examples below (not my actual prices, but it shows what I am talking about) Linear inches (x + x) * 15 8 x 10 = $270 9 x 12 = $315 11” x 14” = $375 18 x 24” = $630 Average = $397.50 In this example, I feel like the smallest size is a decent starting price, and it’s not a huge jump to the next size. It doesn’t take me that much longer (and I don’t use that much more product) to complete something slightly larger so I want my smaller sizes to be a higher price to make up for that Square inches (x * x) * 1.5 8 x 10 = $120 9 x 12 = $162 11 x 14 = $231 18” x 24” = $648 Average = $290.25 In this example, I feel like my smallest size is too cheap, and my largest size is too expensive in comparison - and the average price is also much lower, even though my largest size is priced higher Again, it’s personal preference… but I would rather have my prices be closer together without a huge jump in between because it more accurately reflects how much time and product I am spending on the smaller sizes. I start my smaller sizes at a higher price because it takes me almost as much time to complete the artwork as the next size up. This also means my average price is higher, which means I am earning more overall I hope that makes sense 😊

Thanks ✌

I speak to another artist regularly (Bonny Snowdon) who has been in contact with Clairefontaine about this issue. Clairefontaine technically didn't change anything, but the problem is that they have an "acceptable variance" allowed in their manufacturing process... which means that some batches are rougher than others. I also find that some colours are rougher than others (the darker shades in particular feel rougher to me, whereas the white on the thicker board feels very smooth - I tend to prefer brown, dark grey, and sienna). In general, I can usually get a decent amount of layers/detail even on the batches that are too rough or too smooth, so I just deal with it because unfortunately, there still isn't a better alternative out there as this is a unique surface. I completely understand that it can be disappointing if you get a paper that is rougher or smoother than you'd like! All that being said, sometimes they actually do have genuinely "bad" batches that don't take many layers of pastel. If you notice a huge difference in quality, you may actually have a faulty batch and you can take some photos and email Clairefontaine who are usually pretty good at sending replacements 😊

@@KirstyRebeccaFineArt thank you for this I emailed them pictures of the new vs old.

@@KirstyRebeccaFineArt I use dark gray and the newest sheets I ordered have way to much tooth that I can not get my fine details.

@@KirstyRebeccaFineArt they said there gonna replace my sheets

@@artofgarduno amazing! They are usually pretty helpful so hopefully, your new sheets will be better 😊

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you, I'm from South Australia 😊

Oh no! I only just saw them in store a couple of weeks ago so that is sad to hear! The closest option is the "portrait" version in the A4 size. Your pencils will lay from front to back rather than side to side like the original landscape drawers in the video, however, they will still fit nicely (it's just a different orientation) This is the link to the "portrait" option instead www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/j-burrows-desktop-file-storage-organiser-5-drawer-white-clear-jb5drawwe

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

Clairefontaine Pastelmat 😊

Thank you 😊

THIS IS NOT PINTEREST!!!

You are welcome!

Thank you 😊 Haha I'm trying to avoid blowing pastel dust, so I know how hard it is to stop doing that (it's automatic but also not a great habit to have 😅)

Your colour choices are not that important when it comes to realism - as long as you choose a colour that is similar (not too dark or too light) it doesn't have to be a perfect match! If you would like more in-depth tutorials where I talk through every stage of the process in real-time including listing the colours I am using while I am drawing (and also in the description) then my KR Fine Art Academy might be a good choice for you! There is a link in the description if you would like more information 😊

What kind of solvent is it? And have you used it with your coloured pencils previously? You may have better luck posting this question in a coloured pencil group on Facebook with a picture so people can see what you're looking at (it will make it easier than trying to describe it!) 😊

Which country do you live in? There is only one brand - Pan Pastel (it's by Golden Artist's Colours) I have a few links to some popular sites in a few countries on my website if you scroll down to the pastel section of my supply list here; www.kirstyrebeccafineart.com/supplylists

Thank you, I'm glad it's helpful 😊

There could be a few reasons for this but Prismacolor are wax-based pencils that are pretty opaque, so you could be filling up the "tooth" of the paper quickly which is not allowing your Derwent Drawing to lay on top very well because there's nothing for it to grip onto anymore. So you could try adding fewer layers of coloured pencil, or try layering with a very light hand so that you're adding many, many light layers of coloured pencil without pressing hard on your paper (this will ensure you're not flattening the tooth of the paper either) Another reason could be your paper choice! Sanded papers or papers like Clairefontaine Pastelmat have a lot more texture which allows you to add multiple layers of opaque coloured pencil, and it is much easier to add your white Derwent pencil on top with these kinds of papers You will have difficulty adding white highlights with the Derwent Drawing on top of papers that are very smooth like watercolour papers, bristol, velum, drawing papers etc, especially if you're using a wax-based pencil like Prismacolor without a solvent because of how much the pigment will "stick" to the paper and fill up the tooth If you're not a fan of solvent, they do have natural options like "Zest It!" which a lot of people use for coloured pencil instead of mineral spirits/solvent - so that's an option too! I hope that helps 😊

Glad you enjoyed it

Thank you, I don't plan to delete them, even though my older videos like this one make me cringe a little on the inside haha 😊

Thank you, and I'm glad that you're able to create via colouring books! This video is fairly old now, and I am still struggling to get back into things (improving slowly, though!) I have actually been using adult colouring books to help me stay creative over the last few years because my brain fog/fatigue/exhaustion/illness keeps me in bed a lot of the time. Colouring books have helped me stay sane and feel a little creative when I am unable to get up and create an actual piece of artwork from scratch so I completely understand 😊

@@KirstyRebeccaFineArt Yes - an artistic mind is mostly an highly sensetive mind - and soul. ✨️ We burn ourselves out, if we don't take "time off" , when we start to feel we must create, rather than want to... 🙄 Yes - to behave like a kid again, picking colours by feeling and just pic something by heart i the colouring book - was so much fun!!! 🫠 No thinking - just play & joy! 🎨

I'm glad it works for you 😊 Clairefontaine Pastelmat gets compared to sanded papers (like UART and Fisher400) but it's actually not a sanded paper and it only comes in one "grade". It's a completely unique surface made from natural cellulose fibres, whereas UART is a sanded paper so they work very differently in practice. UART is also not archival on the back, which could affect the longevity of your work over time which is why I don't use it for my artwork, but if it works for you/others then I'm happy you've found something you like. Everyone has their own preferences and supplies they prefer to use and there's no right or wrong way to create art, it just depends on your goals 😊

I'm not an expert in watercolour, so you can research some videos from others with more knowledge on this subject on RUclips but I will try my best to share what I know 😊 When a paper is designed for wet mediums, it just means it's strong enough to not break away/crumble/get ruined in any way by adding water. Good quality watercolour papers will be made from 100% cotton, rather than typical "paper" which helps with the breakage/crumbling/warping. Although these papers are designed to accept water, it doesn't prevent the paper from warping when wet, unfortunately! A lot of watercolour paper will actually come in "blocks" rather than "pads" where all 4 sides are secured to the pad of paper so that the edges won't warp when you add water Some people will "stretch" their paper first by taping down their paper, wetting the entire piece, letting it dry in place, then painting on it after it's dry - I believe this stops the warping from happening as much! Also, if you use a heavier weight paper, the buckling/cockling/warping doesn't happen as much as thinner papers I hope that helps answer your question a bit 😊

I'm glad they were helpful 😊

That is a good idea - I will add it to my list of potential videos to create in the future 😊

Yes absolutely! I have used light layers of gouache (an opaque kind of watercolour) under pastel pencils, and I have also used watercolour under normal coloured pencil drawings and they both work beautifully! Just remember that any water-based medium will need to be applied first, make sure everything is dry, then add your pastel or coloured pencil on top of that If you try to add water on top of pastel or coloured pencil, it may not adhere properly and can affect the archival quality of your artwork 😊

@@KirstyRebeccaFineArt thanks so much

You're welcome! Unfortunately, Pastelmat is a unique paper that has no equivalent option! Every other paper I've tried has either looked very grainy or doesn't take many layers. The paper is actually the most important supply for pastels because you won't get the same results on other papers, and you will end up having to re-learn your techniques again when you start on Pastelmat, so I usually recommend people save money by purchasing a smaller set of pastel pencils/Pan Pastels rather than trying to save money on Pastelmat Buying larger sheets and cutting them down to size can be a good option to save money in the long run, but it is more expensive out of pocket to start with, unfortunately! Pads can be cheaper to get you going but you get less paper for your money this way www.theartshop.com.au usually stock Pastelmat and if they don't have it displayed on their website, you can email/call them and ask them to order it for you (they are the cheapest art supply store I have found in Australia) There is also www.softpastels.com.au who always have a large range of Pastelmat but it's slightly more expensive I know that's probably not what you want to hear, but honesty, Pastelmat is worth its weight in gold! I try to think about it as if I were purchasing canvases for oil/acrylic painting - Pastelmat is still cheaper per piece of artwork than a decent quality canvas and I try to keep that in mind when I'm looking at prices 😊

​@KirstyRebeccaFineArt thank you for the reply and the information. I've ordered the pastel mat paper and looking forward to starting.

Thank you 😊

It was mostly dry Albrecht Durer but I did also use a Derwent Drawing Chinese White coloured pencil because it is more opaque! As long as you do your watercolour pencils first, add water, then let it dry... then add your wax/oil-based coloured pencils on top without adding any more water, it will be archival and works quite well 😊

The only paper I recommend for Pan Pastels (or any pastels) is Clairefontaine Pastelmat! Unfortunately, there is no other paper that compares to it. It is a unique surface made with natural cellulose fibres (some people confuse it with a sanded paper, but it's actually not) This paper allows for many layers of pastel (including details with pastel pencils) and creates a smooth result - I haven't come across any other paper that allows me to get the depth and smoothness I need for realistic drawings! If you have a look at my other pastel videos on RUclips, you'll see me use this paper for all of my pastel drawings so you can have a look at what kind of results you will get on this paper using Pan Pastels with pastel pencils 😊

Thank you, I'm glad it was helpful! 😊

Glad it helped! 😊

Usually, I use Pan Pastels for large areas like backgrounds and also base layers (you can check out my other videos - most are Pan Pastels with pastel pencils) but I get a lot of requests for pastel pencil tutorials without other products which is why I created this tutorial 😊

Glad it was helpful!

That's a good idea, I'll try one of those soon 😊

Thank you 😊 You can technically use coloured pencils over Pan Pastel but it won't give you the same effect on this particular paper (Clairefontaine Pastelmat). Pastel pencils are a lot more opaque and will easily lay on top of the Pans to create a saturated, vibrant colour. Coloured pencils are more translucent and don't have the same "sticking power" as pastel pencils. This basically means the coloured pencil won't be as vibrant or saturated and it can be difficult to add coloured pencil on top of your pastel if you have already filled up the tooth of the paper (the texture/grooves of the paper) with your Pan Pastel. Some artists use coloured pencils over Pan Pastels on Clairefontaine Pastelmat, but I've only ever seen them do minimal layering (or only one layer) with the coloured pencil. I prefer to add more layers because it creates more depth/realism in my work so I don't like using Pastelmat for this combination because it doesn't allow me to add enough layers of coloured pencil. All that being said, I do use Pan Pastels and coloured pencils on the Luxarchival sanded paper which works a lot better than Pastelmat because there is a rougher texture/tooth that allows your coloured pencils to grip onto the paper even after you've applied a layer of Pan Pastel Basically, long story short, if you are creating a subject that doesn't need many layers (like some still life subjects or drawings on a smaller scale) then you could potentially use Pan Pastels with coloured pencil on Clairefontaine Pastelmat... but if you're trying to add multiple layers of details on top (like for animals with fur, or the depth in complicated skin colours on human portraits etc) then I would recommend using pastel pencils over Pan Pastels on Clairefontaine Pastelmat, or use the Luxarchival sanded paper if you want to use coloured pencils over Pan Pastels I hope that makes sense! 😊

I'm glad they are helpful! There's always new things to learn 😊

Glad it was helpful!